This cuvée isn’t what comes to mind when most people think of Bordeaux. Stuffy men in suits, haute cuisine, tannic reds requiring sickly new oak treatment or absurd bottle age to be approachable . . . forget all that. Bénédicte and Grégoire Hubau of Château Moulin are part of a new school of winemaking in the Bordelais, emphasizing sustainable viticulture and minimal intervention in the cellar. In this sense, the cuvée Piverts represents their most revolutionary bottling: made without added sulfur, it is a transparent reflection of Merlot grown in the limestone and clay of Fronsac, in the heart of Bordeaux’s right bank. We suggest decanting this youthful “natural wine” to best appreciate its purity of fruit and the honest expression of terroir it provides. Fun, gulpability, deliciousness—no, these are not words typically associated with Bordeaux.